hey guys, on my way home from a friend's house and noticed my speedometer pausing and then moving after certain sub hits....I'm confused cause I'm only running about 30 amps from a class d and Im using 4 gauge wire. Any ideas??? I personally emphasize using a capacitor only if running over 50 amps and Im nowhere near that so is there a unique way our speedometer reads speed or what? My lights dont dim but all my low current electronics (dash/gauges dimmer, speedometer, and some small accessory lights) twitch. Thanks guys.
hondaluver
hasnt even been an hour, chill bro. there is alot of knowledge on these boards. someone will reply soon enough. besides with a name like hondaluver, your not going to get the quickest responses. j/k. relax though for real.
are you saying like the needle is bouncing? I've seen that before in vehicles with loud stereos. I have never seen a speedo needle that pauses, then works, pauses, works,etc... but its on the simliar principal of that additional vibrations are interrupting the normal function of a electro-mechanical part.
solution? don't turn the stereo up as much?
-john
SQF
solution? don't turn the stereo up as much?
-john
SQF
^^^nice, and i understand the solution but y would i turn the stereo down?!?!? lol, but yeah I didnt know bout the vibrations could interfere with the actual function...thats what surprises me, and it pauses a little, then goes, pauses and goes, so yeah i guess it could be from the vibrations since my subs are top mounted and shake my windshield/rearview like mad. Thanks fer the reply..so i guess the only solution is less bass. I too hope to someday become a first class installer, so i love gaining new info along the way...I'm only 18 so I got a ways to go but thanks fer the explanation John.
just wanted to sum up this thread.....was playing my system real loud today w/out engine running....my needles were bouncing at certain frequencies so i can only imagine how its messing it up when its trying to read my rpm and speed....teacher of mine said might be a ground issue (lack of it) cause stock ground is pretty sad so I 4 gauged to the chasis..no diff but can now pinpoint it as an electro-mechanical problem---ie. my subs are crazy loud....lol
id guess it doesnt have much to do with your sub. Mine does the same thing occasionally and is very random. I do have an aftermarket HU and a sub but mine does it regaurdless of if my stereo is up loud. It will pause at certain speeds then jump, then pause then jump. Seems to stop once i come to a stop and it goes back to 0
crazy loud or not. the needles in the focus are controled by the ecu via a elctro magnent. if you shook the shit out of them they shouldnt "pause"
i have seen cars with competition subs/boxes in them and everything works fine
like i was saying before chances are that you have a connection issue with the ECU to the dash which the subs are ratteling and that is actually causing the pausing and light dim that your seeing on your car.
as yoru teacher was saying about grounding issue might be the case if you saw effects on your whole stereo but you just seeing it on the dash thusly the dash DIN is prolly the culprate. this is a cheap americian built car and the connectors are very easy prone to such problems. your car also isnt pulling more then 50a as you said.
my car pulls in excess of 80a on a sub-amp spike and with the sub cranked much louder then i woudl ever listed to it i have had zero effects on my car.
another tip is stick a ODBC reader on your car see if it throws any codes while its twitching. put a volta meter and see if at 2kRPM and sub cranked if your droping under 13v
i have seen cars with competition subs/boxes in them and everything works fine
like i was saying before chances are that you have a connection issue with the ECU to the dash which the subs are ratteling and that is actually causing the pausing and light dim that your seeing on your car.
as yoru teacher was saying about grounding issue might be the case if you saw effects on your whole stereo but you just seeing it on the dash thusly the dash DIN is prolly the culprate. this is a cheap americian built car and the connectors are very easy prone to such problems. your car also isnt pulling more then 50a as you said.
my car pulls in excess of 80a on a sub-amp spike and with the sub cranked much louder then i woudl ever listed to it i have had zero effects on my car.
another tip is stick a ODBC reader on your car see if it throws any codes while its twitching. put a volta meter and see if at 2kRPM and sub cranked if your droping under 13v
i c spudgunman....yeah i have volt tested my charging system while playing and definitely stays above 13 volts...not a problem...my car only has 28 k miles on it so seems strange that you keep saying a connection problem but I guess it is possible....only it is fine without my stereo going so I can only assume it is causing something to vibrate and thus causing a delay in the speedometer reading...maybe I didnt clarify but this is only happening while driving, where my speed jumps slightly after a bass hit......thanks again fer all the info and ideas but I guess as long as everything is still working at least 85% correctly Im not really concerned.
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