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General Technical Chat This section is for technical discussions relating to general maintenance, electrical issues, engine trouble, and recalls.
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#1 | ||||
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Focus Jr. Enthusiast
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Saftey issue: Brake light staying on in gear issue lots of questions no real solutions? please help us
So I've checked all posts non exacty like mine one is close but no answers there so here's my attempt at bringing in new minds and thoughts to the issues please help us since ford is leaving us out to dry or rather burn lol
The car is a 2002 focus zx3. In park, everything works normally, signal lights flash normally, brakes lights turn on and off, etc. The problem is this, as soon as I shift to any of RND21, the brake lights stay on and when the turn signals are used, both sides flash alternately (right or left). In the tailgate wiring harness, the wire for the 3rd brake insulation is broken, I fixed the insulation properly. When I step on the brake pedal, shift back to park and release the brake pedal and the button from the shift lever ,if I shift to park and hold the shift button in on the shifter (auto trans) and let off the brake the light stays on untill I release the button then everything is back to normal again. I recently replaced the brake light switch, so it is new. (I checked the old one after and its good but old so yea...) If anyone has encountered this same problem or has any feedback I would greatly appreciate the help. Oh also when this started my cruise stoped also...
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Claim not, dynos prove all! |
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Focus Fanatic
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#2 | ||||
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Gets more V8
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11 years old and still Ford's intention to screw you over. lol.
I would still verify any broken wires both in the hatch boot and nearby grounds. In the meantime I guess I'll take a look at the diagram.
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SR #127 | '02 Focus SE "Foci" (5.0 in progress) | '90 Mazda 626 GT "Greenie" (2.2L turbo T3/T4 rebuild-selling) | '94 Toyota 4Runner SR5 "Roach" (daily-stockish) Moderating General Chat Lounge, General Technical Chat, Ford Focus & General Car Chat, and Rocky Mountain Fanatics |
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#3 | ||||
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Focus Fanatic
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Like he says. I'd be looking far closer at the hatch area, you could have more there wrong than you think. If not there then the entire car is suspect and you are screwed if you don't have a heavy electrical skillset. You've tied cruise, shifter, shift button, turn signals, brake lights into an impossible to solve problem on the web. It'll take more than this site to fix that, but I'm betting the problem is actually only in one area rather than all the ones you mention, just isn't possible...............
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#4 | ||||
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Focus Jr. Enthusiast
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Oh beleave me the first electrical issue this car had was when it had 1300 miles on it, then the trans went out at 60k and tons of other issues since then all under the sch dealer maint. Beleave me if this were the only issue id had I wouldn't be upset lol I like most ford things but quality has suffered in the last 15 yrs, I ok hand in hand with a few of there high ups and the agree they've been forced to make cuts basicly saying "we didn't take a bail out from the govt were bailing on the cust" in the sense of cutting costs where quality comes into play. All the consumer reviews were sying the same things, poor engineering and cheap quality builds.
Thanks for ur help I looked over the prints and its not making semse why this is happening like it is
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Claim not, dynos prove all! |
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#5 | ||||
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Focus Jr. Enthusiast
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Quote:
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Claim not, dynos prove all! |
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#6 | ||||
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Focus Addict
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That sucks that there hasn't been a solution posted for similar problems but some of those other problems may still help you like the other thread you posted to. Can you disconnect the cruise control module electrically to isolate that as a phantom possibility? What kind of problem could a 'clock spring' and/or CC module contribute?
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Member of the Dropped Valve Seat Club. Replaced #4 Piston, Rings, Rod+Bearings, AERA Re-Manufactured Cylinder Head and a light Hone. Then CLEANED the hell out of everything. 40k+ miles, now jinxed? Last edited by a_2000_se; 03-07-2013 at 09:59 AM. Reason: Clock spring |
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#8 | ||||
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Focus Addict
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from the other thread - ".....How do I change the CC switches...."
You have to remove the driver side air bag from the steering wheel. Two recessed screws on the back side of the steering wheel, non-metric (7/32???, don't recall). Then the electrical connectors for the switches can be seen. Not too complicated but you ARE working around an airbag.
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Member of the Dropped Valve Seat Club. Replaced #4 Piston, Rings, Rod+Bearings, AERA Re-Manufactured Cylinder Head and a light Hone. Then CLEANED the hell out of everything. 40k+ miles, now jinxed? |
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#9 | ||||
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Focus Jr. Enthusiast
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Ok guys i fixed it it all by getting a new rear light assy including the harness it doesn't make any sense i over looked the wiring diagram and there is no reason it should affect it the way it did but yea now we know for sure. Thanks for all the support and ideas you guys and gals are awesome!
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Claim not, dynos prove all! |
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#10 | ||||
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Late for Dinner
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Quote:
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If Guns Cause Crime, Mine Must Be Defective |
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