Turbo Build by FocusFest 2011?

[CarDemon]

So after a couple of years of fun with a JRSC with BBK, I’ve decided to take the next step and upgrade to a turbo build. As the thread title indicates, my goal is to have it built and running by FocusFest 2011. That’s 90 days!

Here’s my proposed build:

SVT Block (bored .007 over and decked .003)
SVT Crank (polished, magnufluxed, and balanced)
Eagle Rods
JE Pistons
Clevite77 main and rod bearings
ARP main and head studs
Stock head and cams (at least for now)
CFM 65 mm throttle body
OBX adjustable cam gears
Deka 80lb fuel injectors
Tom’s DIY turbo kit (manifold, downpipe, dump pipe, charge pipes, and IC)
Comp Turbo per Tom’s specs
GReddy Type RS Blow-off valve
Turbonetics EVO wastegate
DiabloSport MAFia
AEM wideband
2 ½ inch FSWerks exhaust

My long-term goal is 350 whp. My shorter term goal is more modest for two reasons: First, I don’t yet have a Kenne Bell BAP, which means my fuel delivery is limited. Second, I have an aging ATX which will need to be beefed up with an overhaul kit and a Lentech valvebody. So my initial goal is more like 225 whp (which might even be pushing it).

So what do you think? Can it be done by August 13th so I can get to the Bluegrass Raceway?

I’ll be updating regularly with my progress so you guys can check my work and hopefully motivate me to get it done in time.

[Sponsor]

[fordtech]

It depends on how fast you can get parts, machining done, time to actually do it, and tuning? IDK... I'm around 5 weeks in on my build. But, i had to wait a week for pistons, and i'm still waiting on rods. plus the car had the turbo setup on it already.

[CarDemon]

Preparation

Machine work is already done. It was done at the request of 02_Z_X_3 who sold the block to me. Here's the block with a fresh coat of paint but a little bit of surface rust (after sitting under a leaky garage door):



Here's my buddy (who works for Ford) doing a little bit of clean-up before the work begins:



And here's some of the goodies that I've gotten so far:

[fordtech]

nice, where'd you get the rods from? How long did it take to ship? I ordered mine from no limit motorsports out of NY and its taking forever and pissing me off!!

[CarDemon]

Originally Posted by fordtech

nice, where'd you get the rods from? How long did it take to ship? I ordered mine from no limit motorsports out of NY and its taking forever and pissing me off!!

I ordered almost everything from William at Central Florida Motorsports (CFM). Had the rods within 4 days.

CFM doesn't carry Clevite bearings, though, so I had to order them from Summit Racing. Sadly, it took 3 weeks to get them in.

[CarDemon]

Crankshaft

Dropped in the ARP main studs:



Put the main bearings in, then dropped in the crank and some Plastigauge so we could torque the mains and studs down to check for clearance:



Here's Dave checking the Plastigauge:



Crank is in and sittin' pretty.

[CarDemon]

Pistons and Rods

Next, we moved on to pistons and rods. The JE pistons are incredibly lightweight. They come with ProSeal rings and some pretty decent installation instructions. Here's my buddy showing me how to put of set of rings on in accordance with ProSeal's specs:



After watching him do a couple of pistons, I tried it myself. It's amazing what you can learn with a good teacher and some detailed install diagrams.

Next, we moved on to the rods. Eagle rods have such tight tolerances that you can't even see the break line in the caps until you loosen the bolts and pull them apart. The Clevite bearings snap in just like they do in the mains. These rods and pistons are NOT press fit. Instead, you just slide the pin in and snap a retaining ring on each side. Easy job! Here's Dave doing the first one:



After we had all 4 assembled, we simply squeezed the rings with a ring compressor, and gently persuaded each assembly into its respective cylinder with the handle of hammer. I pulled each through from the lower end of the block, slid the rod cap over the crank, and then torqued them down per the specs (43 foot pounds). Amazingly, this step took less than 90 minutes.

[CarDemon]

Seals and Oil Pump

The next steps involved the rear seal, front seal, and the oil pump.

I purchased a complete seal/gasket kit from CFM that proved to be a great deal. It had everything in one kit to re-build the bottom end of a Zetec.

I decided to re-use my rear-seal assembly but we did replace the seal itself. The old seal popped out with a screw driver. The new seal required a little persuasion to properly seat in the flange. I don't have a picture of it but I "helped" it with a 2x4 and a hammer. Here's Dave affixing the assembly to the rear of the block:



There's a gasket that goes between that rear-seal assembly and the block. I almost forgot to put that gasket in there, which would have been an epic fail. Again, that gasket/seal kit was a life-saver.

A little RTV to make sure things are completely sealed:



Rather than use my old oil pump, I picked up a new one from CFM for less than $120. Instead of using a 2x4 to seat the seal, Dave decided to use a socket:



We slid the new oil pump with its new seal and gasket onto the crank, then snugged it down to the block.

[CarDemon]

Windage Tray

As most of you know, the only drawback to using ARP main studs (besides the price) is that they interfere with baffles/ridges inside the windage tray. If I had more time, I would have sent it out to a machine shop to have the baffles/ridges trimmed, ground, and polished. But I don't. So I decided to try doing it myself with a Dremel. We simply marked the fins/ridges that needed to be trimmed and then started Dremelling.







Not perfect but certainly functional on a tight schedule.

Next, we dropped in the new gasket and then installed the windage tray. It fit like a charm.



I had hoped to get a new oil pickup but in the interests of time I just installed my old one. It had some grime in it but it cleaned up pretty easily.

[bmylez]

Doin work man!