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Old 11-09-2009, 12:19 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by freemind View Post
If you seal and soundproof your doors your mid-bass will be much better.

I have an album up at my avatar.

Soundproofing the doors will help eliminate floor noise as well as some exterior noises commonly found while driving. The main point of sound management materials such as dead skin or dynamat is to limit the amount of outside "noise" heard inside the car, and to limit the amount of your music that escapes the vehicle. Thus doing two things to help you "hear" your music better. By completely separating the front sound waves from the rear waves of a speaker you help increase its clarity. However do NOT be under the impression that this is how the speaker would act if in an actual enclosure with the CORRECT airspace. I have built custom pods for inside doors as well as building an actual enclosure in a door for component sets and the difference is amazing. At the very least I suggest people buy the baffles from partsexpress.com and install them, the difference for the ten dollars you pay is huge!!

And fyi, around 50% of the vehicles total loss of sound is right above your head. Sound proofing the headliner or roof will increase you audio by up to 3dB which is a lot
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Old 11-10-2009, 03:42 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by SquillyB View Post
Soundproofing the doors will help eliminate floor noise as well as some exterior noises commonly found while driving. The main point of sound management materials such as dead skin or dynamat is to limit the amount of outside "noise" heard inside the car, and to limit the amount of your music that escapes the vehicle. Thus doing two things to help you "hear" your music better. By completely separating the front sound waves from the rear waves of a speaker you help increase its clarity. However do NOT be under the impression that this is how the speaker would act if in an actual enclosure with the CORRECT airspace. I have built custom pods for inside doors as well as building an actual enclosure in a door for component sets and the difference is amazing. At the very least I suggest people buy the baffles from partsexpress.com and install them, the difference for the ten dollars you pay is huge!!

And fyi, around 50% of the vehicles total loss of sound is right above your head. Sound proofing the headliner or roof will increase you audio by up to 3dB which is a lot
I agree that the roof is bad but it's evil brother the firewall is just as bad IME. Those are the next two on my list.

Most car audio drivers are built to be IB. If you get the correct T/S parameters then yes, the correct airspace by way of a pod is best. It all depends on how much time, money and skills you have available.
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Old 11-10-2009, 08:02 AM   #15
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Is the tube amp'd? I run an *' Rockford Fosgate P2 subwoofer at around 100 watts rms 300 max and I have enough bass to flex the windows in my ranger so if your missing bass and own a sub your missing power somewhere.

To answer your question, you can use the factory wiring but its not recommended. You will have to terminate one end of the connection before adding the amp wires to the equation, aka you gotta cut it.

Yes the bas tube is amped and have plenty of bass looking to get back the mids.
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Old 11-10-2009, 02:00 PM   #16
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Yes the bas tube is amped and have plenty of bass looking to get back the mids.

ok , far to often I see people trying to get more mid bass, and this is not an easy accomplishment folks. If you add a lot of bass you will loose the ability to hear the mid as well. People far to often raise the mid levels on they're system and it still sounds like poo. I'll just throw this out there, rather than increase what you do NOT have, why not decrease what you do have to compensate for what you dont?? I add tweets all the time and the first thing often complained about is why the mids sound different now?

lets think about that for a minute folks, i'll come back
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Old 11-10-2009, 09:33 PM   #17
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Even with the bass tube off the mids just are not what I am used to. Maybe I do need a new head unit.
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